Naina Peak : The Crown Jewel of Nainital

A Charming Conundrum!

• What do you write about a hike that you have done more number of times than you have visited the town the hike is in?

• How do you sum up your tryst with a peak where you escaped to when the world was busy splashing colors on each other and also when it reveled with crackers six months later?

• Can you really put in words your experiences about a path you have enjoyed with friends and with family (and most of all, alone), in the hazy summer of June and in the chilling winters of December, in cold mornings and in full-moon nights?

It is not easy to summarize my experiences at (and towards) the crown jewel of Nainital in one write-up. Perhaps that’s why the delay after the article about Syahi Devi hike. The memories at the highest point of Nainital are too varied, too eclectic, and quite simply, too many.

However, an attempt must be made, to package the multitude of moments together, to coalesce the various experiences, and above all to highlight the so many facets of the Naina peak hike, to fellow hiking enthusiasts.

Tryst with the Peak

The first time I climbed to the highest point in Nainital, digital cameras were still far away, much less camera phones. As a young student visiting Nainital for the weekend, walking uphill to see Nainital’s drone-like aerial view was not an inviting prospect. Like most people my age, I wanted to walk down the mall, do shopping and ride in a boat. However, having a nature-loving native as a mate meant walking unexplored paths and doing unconventional things. In retrospect, I can’t be happier that I decided to give up on the typical touristy stuff.

The board at the bifurcation! This fork comes about halfway through the climb, if one climbs from the Tanki bend starting point. The uphill path from here takes one to the top. The level path goes to the Kilbury FRH (Forest Rest House) through the most picturesque nature trail of Nainital.

We climbed up from Tanki bend (locally called Band; welcome to the death of the short syllable!). Halfway into the climb, we reached a bifurcation, clearly marked by the forest department. The uphill slope takes one to the peak from there, while the level way leads to a most picturesque forest path replete with wildlife, birds and two crystal-clear water streams, culminating at the Kilbury Forest Rest House (FRH), some six kilometers ahead. It took me 15 years to explore this latter path. Hence, this post, so that fellow travelers looking to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city know where to spend the day.

What’s in a (degenerated) name?

Initially, when I heard of China Peak, a naïve me believed that it was called so because perhaps one can see as far as the People’s Republic from the top. It was much later I discovered that the words China in the name was a degenerated form of Cheena, a local saint, dedicated to whom, there lies a temple at the peak. To avoid the China vs. Cheena confusion, the name now used is Naina Peak.

And that's where Indian languages are superior to the Queen's tongue!

The inscription on the 'Cheena Baba' temple (atop the peak) clears any doubts about the peak having any relation to the People's Republic.

All paths lead to the peak

There are several ways to climb till Naina peak, so many that one is practically spoilt for choices. Depending on how long do you want to stay away from the cacophony of the city, you can choose which option to take. For ease of use, see the map-cum-climbing kit below -

Map-cum-Climbing Kit. The starting points are A and F, if one starts from Nainital city. Should one be starting from Pangot, the options are to start from point C (Pangot market) or point D (Kilbury FRH)

Routes for full day hikes (1/2)

Nainital – Naina Peak – Kilbury FRH – Nainital

Personally, I have little doubt that this is the most picturesque of all routes. While climbing from Nainital, if one takes the route via the Satyanarayana Temple, then one does not even have to wait to reach the peak, to get a panoramic view of the lake. Right from the temple, a view most marvelous of the lake comes into view.

From the peak, the climbing down can be done via the Tanki Bend route, till the bifurcation mentioned previously. At the bifurcation, take the level-route to Kilbury forest range.

A glimpse into the wonders that the Kilbury FRH trail has to offer

This trail passes right through the jungle and crisscrosses two water streams. If one is lucky, then foxes, jackals, even leopards (careful!) may be seen, especially near the water streams. A host of birds, including pheasants, keep showing up here and there as well. Magnificent views of the western Himalayas can be seen from the majority part of this trail. From Trishul on the left to Panchachuli on the extreme right can be seen on a clear day.

A breathtaking view of Trishul, Mrigthuni, and Maiktoli peaks from the FRH trail

Nandakot, basking in the sun

Two is company (Whiskered Yuhina and Blue-winged Minla)

and...

Three is crowd (a Green-backed Tit joins the shower)

The FRH trail (from the bifurcation point till Kilbury FRH) is undoubtedly the highlight of this route, even more than the high-ground views that the peak itself offers. After reaching the FRH, one has the option of either retracing one’s steps or take the concrete road while coming back to Nainital. The road is just three quarters of a kilometer, from Kilbury FRH to its junction below with the Nainital-Pangot pukka road. Even the concrete road can be (I recommend that should be) traversed on foot. It passes through a thick forest, and hence often offers photogenic moments of landscape and wildlife alike.

Routes for full day hikes (2/2)

Nainital – Naina Peak – Pangot – Nainital

Like the route encompassing the FRH trail, this route also passes through a forest. If one is lucky, then the sight of a Himalayan griffon is a pleasant site to watch for. No water source in this entire path means fewer wildlife presence, however.

As one closes in towards Pangot, though, birds reward enthusiasts with pretty sights. If the month is March-April, blooming Rhododendrons also make for a sight to watch.

While returning from Pangot, one can either take a shared taxi or walk the concrete road (the same one that passes right under Kilbury FRH) or even retrace one’s steps through the forest.

Both full-day options offer sufficient flexibility to be done in the exact opposite manner than the one recommended, i.e. one can start from Pangot or Kilbury FRH instead of culminating one’s hike there.

Routes for half day hikes

Option 1: Nainital Polytechnic – Shri Satyanarayan Temple – Naina Peak – Himalaya Darshan – Tanki Bend

Option 2: Tanki Bend – Himalaya Darshan - Peak - Shri Satyanarayan Temple - Nainital Polytechnic

I am ascribing half-day to these routes very liberally here. If one is pressed for time and is fast enough, ascent and descent can be done in less than three hours flat. I remember the Diwali of a few years ago. I was staying at a posh Nainital hotel with a company that included friends no less posh than the hotel. Despite a drunken bacchanalian the night before Diwali, I woke up early on the Diwali morning. As all my co-travelers were still fast asleep and even the hotel restaurant was not going to open for a couple of more hours, I decided to do the unthinkable. I say unthinkable because we had to check out that morning. If I was thinking of climbing the peak, I had exactly three hours to reach a starting point (Tanki Bend or Polytechnic), climb up the peak on a cold November morning, and come back to my hotel room.

With enthusiasm in my veins and doubts in my mind, I started from my hotel room and had made it to the peak by 8 AM. I even spent a half hour at the peak, watching the lake city basking in the glory of the morning sun. To cater to the slightly devilish side of me, I video-called my friend – a native of Nainital – from there. Usually he is home on Diwali, but on this particular occasion, he was six thousand miles away. There is a special pleasure to be taken from showcasing your early morning exploits to the world.

When I reached the hotel at just before 10, my co-travelers were still under their blankets.

On another occasion, I started the climb in late afternoon and had the pleasure of climbing down in the magnificent light of full moon, having observed the sunlight turning the hues of the western Himalayas from yellow, to amber, to crimson, all in a matter of minutes!

The point being if you have less than half a day, but still would like to see the most magnificent sight of the lake city. Don’t hesitate, just climb!

Rise of the full moon

Sunset changing the hues of the Himalayan peaks

What to do at the peak?

All routes to the peak reach the Naina peak top near the Cheena baba temple, right in front of the wireless repeater station. On a lazy day, plan to spend a few hours at the top. On a clear day (especially from October to February when haze does not block the views), a panoramic view of the Western Himlayas is seen from Naina peak, right from Trishul on the left flank to Panchachuli on the far right.

The Wireless Repeater Station (notice the altitude mentioned)

The panoramic view of the western Himalayas (about 15 minutes into the climb from Tanki bend starting point, there is a vantage point to view the Himalayas, aptly names 'Himalaya Darshan')

A sundial kind of structure – located in the compound of the wireless station -- helps enthusiasts determine the names of the peaks, along with their altitude and aerial distances from Naina peak. The station operators will be more than open to offer you tea and biscuits at a nominal charge. Don’t miss a hot cup of noodles!

Piping hot noodles and a refreshing cuppa!

A trail leaves towards north-east from the 'Cheena baba temple'. Take this trail and keep walking. When the trail is at its fag end, a cliff comes into view, located at a certain height. Walk up about fifteen paces and the most breathtaking view of the Nainital lake welcomes you. One can spend an entire day here, but given the vagaries of modern life, make do with at least an hour.

The most magnificent view of the lake. Notice the eye-shaped contours leading to the name "Naini"tal | Picture taken during November

Same vantage point, different month (September)

If you have a good pair of binoculars or a high-powered zoom lens, explore the entities from afar: the city, the paths, the people. And when you see scores of tourists thronging the mall for that perfect selfie, you can have a small sense of pride ... that you are not among the folks doing touristy stuff below!

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'Day-hikes' series of write-ups chronicle the tales of short treks, hope, and above all, adventure.

Go ahead, take these immersive journeys with me.

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